Saṃsāra or Sansar (Devanagari: संसार) is a Sanskrit word that means "wandering" or "world", with the connotation of cyclic, circuitous change. It is also the concept of rebirth and "cyclicality of all life, matter, existence", a fundamental belief of most Indian religions. —-Wikipedia
After our Copper Canyon adventure we crossed back over the Sea of Cortez to Baja then south to Puerto Excondido/Loreto to pick up Katie’s sister Janet and husband Ron to join us for a Christmas cruise.
With Samsara all cleaned up and ready to go in the beautiful Puerto Escondido Marina Kate and I provisioned then picked up our guests for the sail north.
We stopped first and Isla Coronado for the night and explored the shoreline.
When Kate & I had been in San Juanico a month earlier we arranged with “The Farm” to take us all on a mule ride so Christmas eve morning we made the 1K walk out to the farm.
We took a ride south and inland through the chaparal then down to the beach and back along the shore. It was beautiful!
At the end of the day we grilled steaks on the beach reminiscing about past Christmas eve dinners.Moonrise off the stern.
Ron is an eager, persistent and consummate fisherman. Here you can watch an expert land a Pacific Bonito. These are the most common fish in the Sea of Cortez and a good fighter. We tried eating it once and that was enough. We let these go!
Another example of Ron’s prowess. I think that’s a kind of Trigger Fish. We let him go as well.
After many hours of trolling we finally caught a beautiful Mahi Mahi! We didn’t let this one go!
Proud father! Here Ron is having a heart to heart with Ms. Mahi Mahi expressing his serious gratitude. Tastey!
Ron generously brought all kinds of tackle, new boxes and a spin cast rod and reel which I duly organized. Kate’s not very happy with the cabinet space this is using but this is essential stuff and needs to be accessible!
Back in Puerto Escondido we had our Mahi Mahi prepared by the restaurant and shared with fellow cruisers. On the 28th Janet & Ron taxied to the airport and we celebrated our 34th wedding anniversary. Life is good!
We left early from Los Mochis on “El Chepe” the luxury train up to Creel and the Copper Canyon.
The views out the windows were often spectacularThe Creel Lodge Resort and Spa made us feel like we were in Jackson Hole. And it was about 32 degrees F
The dining hall was usually empty but had the Christmas Spirit.
Our guide, the next morning, took us to Diversadero, the next pueblo down the railroad tracks. It overlooks the Copper Canyon and has Zip Lines and other adventures.
This video gives and idea of the height and distance traveled on the zip line. This rider is not one of us.
Katie preparing and launching.
Jeff coming in for a landing. Muy Bueno! At the end of the Zip line we hiked about 15 Minutes up to the tram that takes us back to the top enjoying the views.
After our mountain excursion we returned to San Carlos and sailed west back across the Sea of Cortez to Bahia Conception. Heading for Puerto Escondido again to pick up Katie’s sister Janet and her Husband Ron for a Christmast sail.
As Kook sailed south we headed north stopping first at Bahia Santa Domingo at the top of Bahia Conception and saw one of the most amazing sunsets. We even had some bars on our phones!
In Bahia Conception there are several anchorages but one of favorites was El Burro with a shore lined with small, colorful beach houses, many for American Ex Pats. One day we took a hike up a little mountain behind the beach.
We’d read that the rocks were so rich in iron that the rang like a bell when struck!We hitched a ride in to Mulege to visit an ATM and get some pesos. It was shocking to see so much water and green!After about a week in Bahia Conception we continued north stopping at Punta Chivato and then the marina at Rosalia. There we found a nice town, restaurants and even Ice Cream!
While anchored in Puerto Don Juan in Bahia de Los Angeles we foraged for the local clams! They were abundant and delicious.
Sunrise in Puerto Don Juan
We sailed over to the pueblo at Bahia de Los Angeles and visited the most amazing little museum featuring shells and bones from thousands of sea critters and marine life. That afternoon we sailed up to Isla La Ventana to a beautiful but tight anchorage. It was calm and the sunset was awesome but we knew the wind was supposed to come up and change directions in the middle of the night.
This show of the Chart Plotter instruments at 03:43 in the morning shows our original anchor drift track to the left and the moment when the wind shifted 180 degrees and settle for a while before our anchor dragged then re-set. It was nerve wracking in the middle of the night.
We sailed east across the Sea stopping off at the barren Isla San Estaban to anchor on the south west corner. No person, building or boat as far as the eye could see...only birds and frolicking sea Lions.
We continued east to Isla Tiburon and spotted a couple very large whales, then sailed south stopping first at a small, isolated anchorage called Pozo Moreno. The stark beauty of the extraordinary rock formations and chaparral were typical of the Sea of Cortez
Southward to San Carlos we stopped in La Condesa and had a late afternoon lunch at the Soggy Peso. Samsara was the only boat in the bay and the restaurants were pretty empty. But we are usually happy to be served guacamole and chips!
Looking south from our anchorage at La Condesa we could see the famous Tetas de Cabra (literally translated: goat tits). The next day we were on the other side looking north tucked safely in our slip.
Marina San Carlos became our home for a couple weeks. We took advantage of being in a slip to clean Samsara’s bottom, polish the top sides and stainless steel. This photo was taken from the top of the mast of our neighbor boat, Pura Vida. Jeff volunteered to be hoisted up her tall mast to repair Pura Vida’s wind vane, since neither the owner nor the crew were willing. As payment, Captain Bernd, insisted on treating us to a nice dinner. A fair trade for sure!
The summer months in Banderas Bay are hot and muggy with nightly thunderstorms. We were happy to escape the heat and humidity and get back on the water.
Before we pulled out of our marina, we made one last trip into Buccerias with our friends on Kook, passing this mural, typical of Mexican street art.
Enjoying good food, a drink or two with our dock mates, the crew from “Kook” .
We waited until a hurricane passed and headed out of the harbor passing a marina landmark!
Our first stop was The Marias, a small island group previously serving as a prison site and off limits to people and all marine travel. To stay over night requires a permit which we did not have. We were busted by the Mexican Navy and Jeff sweet talked them into letting us stay the night over the radio.
Isla Isabella, home to the Blue Footed Boobies and Magnificent Frigate birds was our next stop. On the way Katie caught a Pacific Bonito that put up a hell of a fight only to be released back into the deep blue sea.
We anchored, spent the night and woke up to the arrival of our friends on the sailing vessel, Kook. Kook and Samsara would sail together for the next couple weeks to San Juanico where Kook would head to La Paz to be sold and Samsara would continue on to points north.
Thanks to Jeff….FRESH FISH FOR DINNER!!!
We left the anchorage at 4 am heading north to Mazatlan and caught the moon setting in the west and the sun rising in the east.
Our biggest ocean hazard, the dastardly shrimp boats who motivate the sea at night with no radar and no respect for sailors.
Dinner at Presidio in historic old town Mazatlan with Bill, David, and Linda the crew from Kook (not sure how we made it home safely after being “over served” by our waiter)!
We left Mazatlan sailing west all day and through the night and were rewarded with this the next morning.
We arrived at Bahia Los Muertos about 1400 and had an early dinner on shore and enjoyed remarkable sunset.
With favorable winds we sailed north up the Canal de San Lorenzo towards Espiritu Santo and surprisingly had cell service part of the way!
ENSENADA GRANDE one of our most favorite spots in the Sea of Cortez! Noted for crystal clear turquoise water, white sandy bottom and truly stunning rock formations that frame this beautiful bay. A special spot for sure. Flip through the slide show below to see why we love this place so much….
Kook and Samsara continued north in winds much stronger than predicted. This video shows Kook struggling to maintain forward momentum before they turned around and headed back. Samsara weathered the storm a bit better and continued on making an unplanned but necessary stop at Isla San Francisco to get out of the blow.We tucked in for safety Ilsa San Franciso presented a beautiful bay! Jeff took a hike up one of the cliffs overlooking the water.San Evaristo and Kook resting safely in the bayLupe’s on the beach enjoying hte world’s best shrimp agua chile some wine and maybe a beer or two with our buddies from KookAnother Sea of Cortez personal favorite…Agua Verde
In Puerto Escondido we joined the Day of the Dead celebrations with Katrina.
On our way north from Puerto Escondido we anchored in the bay on the south west corner of Isla Coronado and were visited by a large pod of Dolphin.Mining for obsidian “Apache Tears”Evening barbeque on the beach with friends“Ciao for now” to our friends on Kook: Captain Bill Smith, First Mate David Roddy and Chef Extraordinare, Linda Steidel! We will miss seeing you across the water but look forward to a reunion!
First stop, Hacienda Labor de Rivera outside of Teuchitlan. Driving on a pot-holed dirt road through corn fields Katie protested that this couldn’t be the right way but we came to this gate.
The gate opened….
Turns out we were the only guests and we enjoyed the doting staff and beautiful grounds.We drove about 45 minutes north to visit Tequila passing beautiful fields of Blue Agave.
At the Tequileño Distillery we learned about the tequila making process and enjoyed an amazing lunch.
Teuchitlan; a Pueblo Magico with narrow cobblestone streets with brightly colored buildings and magnificent murals.
Above Teuchitlan are the Guachimontones’ ruins, unique in Meso America for their round pyramids. The above picture was taken from the top of the largest but un-excavated pyramid.The excellent museum on site, including this mural helps one imagine what life may have looked like 1000 years ago.The Pueblo of Ajijic on Lake Chapala. Home to many American and Canadian expats and retirees. Maybe too many.
Did we mention that the streets in Guanajuato are narrow?
Our wonderful Hotel, The Casa Del Rector, carved out of a 500 year old building was on just such a street. Guanajuato know for it’s Spanish colonial architecture was bustling and colorful.
Guanajuato is built in a narrow valley. We took the panoramic drive around the city to visit silver mines and take in the views.
In San Miguel de Allende our Hotel, Casa Quebrada was also carved out of an ancient building but beautiful and modern once through the door.
We walked from our hotel a short distance to the main square. The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel dominates the square.
Walking the streets one sees many old and interesting doorways. Occaisionaly an open doorway reveals a beautiful home and lush courtyard.
We spent one morning with our excellent guide Albert Coffee touring the ruins at Canada de las Virgens. Then back to SMdA. Always much to see.
We visited the square at night.
On to Mexico City where we visited the iconic ruins of Teotihuácan about 45 minutes north east of the city. Ruins that were over 1000 years old when Cortez arrived and destroyed Tenochtitlan now buried under downtown Mexico City.
Though so old and continuously looted the ruins are still an awesome spectacle. Our excellent guide Enrique gave us many insights helping us not only appreciate the pre-Columbian history but also his own interesting life and experiences.
In Mexico City we stayed in an area called La Condessa with tree lined streets, shops, restaurants, hotels and lots of people moving around. They Love their dogs….
We walked the streets, shopped, watched the people and sampled delicious street food.
After visiting Diego Rivera’s Anahuacalli Museum Katie said she was done with seeing any more ruins….
The drive south to Oaxaca took us through some breathtaking vistas.
But there were more ruins and Monte Alban, outside of Oaxaca, some of the oldest, continuously inhabited buildings were perhaps the most impressive. Our guide Mario was a gem.
Hotel Sin Nombre in the Oaxaca Centro was different a special.
We visited a town outside of Oaxaca that specialized in making textiles and got a thorough lesson in rug making. Katie was very happy.
We walked the streets and took in the sights doing a little shopping.
Beautiful at night as well.
We drove back north to Cholula to see what was once the largest pyramid (by volume) in the world but of course the Spanish have built a church on top of the mound that is left and there was a carnival at it’s base. Sad and perverted.
Heading back to Samsara we stopped one night in Morelia. Our hotel was again very modern carved out of an ancient building. We were the only guests!
Though during the right season one can see the Monarch Butterflies in Morelia, all we saw as another old church and tacky goods.
With Cal and Cathy Roth on board, Los Quatros Amigos began a special journey south to Zihautanejo.
Arrived at Careyes after our disturbing meeting with a submerged rock and managed to drink and eat our worries away at Playa Rosa, a favorite spot of ours that we were happy to share with the Roths!
Late to bed but early to rise, we left Caleta de Campo with Zihatanejo as our destination.
Hello Zihau!
Dinner overlooking Bahia Zihau from Tentaciones shared with our crew! A memorable evening all around.
The Bay is full of life and always changing.
Jeff building our foldable bikes that come in a back pack making exploring on land a little bit easier! Katie’s bike is electric assist and Jeff’s pure pedal power!
Wandering around the town one day, we ran across a painting studio that offered classes. Katie immediately enrolled in 3 sessions and using a photo taken at the Monterey Bay Aquarium as inspiration, produced her own masterpiece! Let’s face it the teacher was a genius!
Inspiration photoKatie’s rendition
Images from in and around Zihua
We walked down to the Playa Madera–where there is a whale tale sculpture–for dinner and could see Samsara anchored in the bay.
Walking back later that evening the whale tale takes on a different meaning….
New crew, Mike Gordon, has arrived. We now have a doctor and a real photographer on board….you can expect the photos to get a lot better from here…!
The incredible magic of Zihautanejo at night!
The artistry of the local fisherman caught on camera by Dr Gordon!
We spent Isla Ixtapa on our way north in search of clear snorkeling waters, but had no luck!
A benefit of having able crew aboard is a quick nap for the captain and first mate!
Heading north to Puerto Vallarta the night sky put on quite a show while anchored in Ipala
Because she wasn’t shifting into gear reliably we had Samsara hauled out at Opequimar Shipyard in Puerto Vallarta to have her sail drive repaired.
Across the street from the Shipyard the Westin allowed easy access to Samsara and downtown Puerto Vallarta.
Katie’s birthday dinner at Tintoque in the Zona Romantica in PV. Lookin’ good for 45!
Back on Samsara we removed the sail drive and found that a small leak of seawater from the exhaust manifold had created a little bigger problem. We needed more parts and that took additional weeks
While waiting we explored the downtown. This is Katie’s favorite little marketplace.
All over Mexico, we found hanging decorations in the streets…never ceased to bring a smile to our faces.
One night we ran across this magical park all made of mosaics. Amazing!
Not uncommon sights of local PV nightlife….
We had dinner one evening on the Malecon next to a table of nice fellows that were members of the multi grammy winning band Maná that apparently everyone knew but us. The local street musicians played for them and Maná sang along. We later looked them up on ITunes and fell in love with their music.
We hired our UBER driver/friend Sergio to drive us 2 hours east into the mountains to visit San Sebastien del’Oueste, one of 132 “Pueblo Magicos” in all of Mexico.
The rebuilt sail drive was re-installed with newly PropSpeed painted prop!
Back in the water and on to the next leg of our adventure!
Leaving Puerto Escondido (Loreto) with high winds and building seas looking back on the rugged coastline.
Crossing the Sea of Cortes on an overnight passage, we anchored off Topolobampo for a day setting sail that evening for Altata, Sinaloa, rumored to be an enclave of beach homes for the cartel. After navigating a very shallow bay we found a slip at Marina Cortes which made us feel like we landed in the Swiss Family Robinson movie set.
A common sight day and night and a navigational hazard were the shrimp boats, sometimes anchored in 150′ five miles off shore with no AIS to warn us. Kept us on our toes.
We loved the historic district of Mazatlan with its colorful old buildings, great restaurants and galleries. Would have loved to spend more time there but had a crew to pick up in Puerto Vallarta.
Our final stop before Puerto Vallarta was beautiful ISLA ISABELLA, a paradise for naturalists and bird watchers. A Mexican national park and official nature preserve, Jacques Cousteau spent much time here studying the amazing wildlife, most particularly the marine birds including the spectacular blue footed booby and the ocean frigates with their 6 ft wing spans!
We landed our dinghy in front of the very small fishing village and found a marked hiking trail that lead us up to a lake and around the island.
The frigatebirds, which can stay aloft for weeks at a time, were everywhere nesting in trees about eye level. Unique among aquatic birds, their feathers are not waterproof so they can land in the water to rest. Males sport a vivid red pouch along their throats that they inflate to attract females. We rescued one that foundered in the water behind Samsara and took her to recover on land.
Know as the official mascot of the Galapagos and also found on Isla Isabella, the magnificent “Blue Footed Boobies” are monogamous creatures and were in the midst of full mating season! The bright blue color in their feet comes from the pigments obtained from their diet of fresh fish. Nests are constructed by the females on the ground where they sit on beautiful blue eggs. We witnessed their notorious mating dance and watched the humorous “waddle” that gave them their name.
A happy sailor after a wonderful day watching boobies!
In Puerto Vallarta we were excited to greet Samsara’s first international guests/crew members. Setting sail immediatley for Chamela and Careyes.
And the games began….
Our destination in Careyes was that yellow house on the cliff. But first we had to visit the local clinic for a Covid test before being allowed to mingle.
Test at 0900, results at 1530. TODOS NEGATIVOS!
It was great to have more hands on deck.
Good times and great company.
Our motley crew.
Special thanks to our generous and gracious hosts and treasured friends.
First stop after La Paz was the beautiful Isla Espiritu Santo with its magnificent geology and clear ocean water. We were here all alone…
A short trip north of Espiritu Santo our next stop was Isla Partida where the geology and water continued to amaze.
Los Islotes Sea Lion Rookery
A highlight of our Baja experience was swimming with the sea lions at Los Islotes. They were so playful, friendly and felt like blubber! It was rumored that the babies will cuddle right up in your arms! Caution: when the big guys come around, it’s best to back off.
I can imagine that the cosmetic chemist at Chanel responsible for of the formulation of the 2021 color trends might derive immense inspiration from the dramatic kaleidoscope of color that the geography in the Sea of Cortez presents. ( to read more about this, see Katie’s Blog #6 above).
Our first Christmas aboard Samsara was spent at the bay at San Evaristo! Santa was nowhere to be found but we both felt amply gifted by our amazing adventure! Jeff roasted a rack of lamb with carrots, onions and potatoes. We drank a beautiful bottle of Revana, compliments of Sun and Kelly Choe. An attempt at key lime pie (from memory, no recipe) was desert. The winds were howling 25 knots outside!Sunrise at Agua Verde one of our favorite places, an idyllic cove south of Loreto where we spent 3 days and met interesting and well traveled adventurers who were camping on the sand one of whose grandfather invented the Ceasar salad cheffing at a restaurant in Tijuana many years ago.
We hiked and snorkeled, drank tequila on the beach and laughed!
On our sail north to Loreto, we saw El Mano de Dios…
At Honeymoon Cove we were entertained by eight dolphins lazily cruising the cove feeding at sunset. They were still around at sunrise!Loreto, also known as Pueblo Magico, was the origina capital of Baja California. The first mission in Baja was founded here by the Jesuits in 1697. It is a delightful town of cobblestone streets and quaint old buildings overlooking the Sea of Cortez. We had a lot of fun exploring here and even ran into Frieda Khalo out shopping.
Known as the most well preserved of all the Baja missions. The church at San Francisco de Javier was founded in 1699 and still attracts a pilgrimage of over 2000 devout Catholics each year in December. The village and the mission are a 45 minute drive up in the mountains above Loreto.
sv-samsara.com 